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EcoInk Solutions

Looking to leather up but don’t want to harm animals? Why not go for banana leather?

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Date: 06/12/2024

It happened. The ever-pervasiveness of the various festival deals finally got to you. On your couch now lays a mountainous heap of delivery packages — the product of many guilty buys whose contents will dress you for any occasion that may arise for the next several months.

While you will certainly razzle-dazzle from Diwali to Christmas this year, let’s take another discerning look at what these impulse purchases actually cost.

For starters, that leather jacket-boots combo that you hoped would turn heads as you whizzed through the city on your bike? That’s just a little over 25,000 litres of fresh water down the drain — enough water to help a family for three survive for two whole months. If the heap also includes a leather bag, feel free to add another 4,000 litres to the total.

These calculations don’t even take into account the massive carbon and methane footprints that mass production of leather items incur, or the barrage of chemicals that leak into our ground and water via the tanning process. So what can you do?

The easiest answer is to opt for more sustainable faux leather options, such as the various types of leathers made from pineapple leaves, apples peels and mushrooms. Studies have shown that the production of these materials can take up to ten times less water than traditional leather, and at a fraction of the carbon footprint. Furthermore, plant-based vegan leather is generally the cleanest of the faux leather options, while the added advantage of biodegradability.

Meet Banofi

One notable option is Banofi, a banana-based leather alternative. Banofi uses banana stem pulp — a byproduct that would otherwise go to waste — instead of animal hide. According to the company, Banofi’s production process uses 95% less water and reduces CO₂ emissions by up to 90% compared to traditional leather. This is achieved with a mix of 65% banana fibres and additional natural ingredients like rubber and gum arabic, along with synthetic adhesives and polymers.

However, it’s important to note that Banofi’s use of synthetic polymers may affect its biodegradability. While the material contains a high percentage of natural components, the presence of these polymers means that it doesn’t fully break down as a natural leather alternative might. As a result, Banofi may be more biodegradable than traditional synthetic leathers, but it doesn’t go the whole way since they are laced with synthetic polymers recycled from PET bottles.

“Our current commercially viable material is 95% bio based and we are happy to share that we’re working on a 100% bio based material which we’ll be launching in 2025,” a Banofi representative told Business Insider India. “Our materials are 100% circular so that it meets industry standards and the end-of-life cycle the material can be upcycled further to make a new Banofi material.”

But there’s no denying that Banofi’s production process could potentially minimise waste by recycling banana stems that are typically left to decompose or burn. This helps to prevent emissions and provides farmers with an additional source of income — a win-win for both the environment and the communities that rely on these crops.

Why don’t more people opt for vegan leather?

Most people understand that plant-based leathers like Banofi are generally more sustainable. However, there are some limitations that have throttled its widespread adoption. For instance, vegan leather is often less durable than traditional leather. This can lead to a need for more frequent replacements, which can hinder its overall sustainability. Meanwhile, the Banofi representative explained that their material boasts at least five years worth of durability.

While tests by the Circular Material Library have shown that many of the material’s properties — such as tear resistance and flexibility — are comparable to animal leather, it is also unlikely that it will develop a “patina” over time like traditional leather. Patina is a soft sheen or natural wear that develops on leather over time, giving it a unique, aged look. Many consider it desirable because it adds character and enhances the leather’s appearance, often making it more attractive and personalised with use.

Further, traditional leather tends to soften and conform to the body over time, but many vegan leathers don’t offer the same breathability or softness. While Banofi claims to be nearly indistinguishable from traditional leather, the synthetic components may give it a slightly different feel and flexibility. As per the representative, the upcycled Banofi materials are comparatively different, having a grainy hand feel, which they asserted is well suited for fashion accessories and stationery items. 

However, if a consumer is unsatisfied, Banofi offers a take-back program to recycle used material into new products. But if you’re simply looking to make a more ethical choice in your wardrobe, Banofi certainly seems like a stylish and planet-friendly alternative to consider.

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Ankush Banerjee

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